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Katschkita Podróże Myanmar - czyli Do's and Don'ts Wszedzie dobrze, ale u mamy najlepiej / Everywhere is good but by mum is the best ;)
Katschkita Podróże Myanmar - czyli Do's and Don'ts Wszedzie dobrze, ale u mamy najlepiej / Everywhere is good but by mum is the best ;) 
2013
07
paź
Wszedzie dobrze, ale u mamy najlepiej / Everywhere is good but by mum is the best ;)
Birma, Mandalay
Przejechano 1029 km
Raz, dwa sniadanko z tym razem z zupa tajska o efekcie wow i sokiem z guawy dla mnie i tym samym kelnerem co wczoraj, ktoremu kreci sie doslownie lza w oku gdy nas zegna i zyczy dobrej podrozy i powodzenia w Birmie, bo przeciez jak to on stwierdzil tam nie ma bankow...jedyne co przyslo mu do glowy, gdy powiedzielismy gdzie jedziemy) i zebysmy wrocili jeszcze raz. No to go pocieszelismy, bo najprawdopodobniej tak wlasnie zrobimy. Pedem na taksowke, ze spiewajcym kierowca, zeby zdazyc na lotnisko i chwile pospac w samolocie. Odprawa sprawna, zero sprawdzania, slalom przez perfumerje, konsumcja suszonego krokodyla - Fu - namietne poszukiwanie kawy zeby pozbyc sie smaku i utrzymac otwarte oczy choc jeszcze przez chwile, coby trafic do samolotu i lecimmmyyyy. Nad zielonymi wzgorzami i rozlewiskami z celem Mandalay. Na miejscu szybki rekonesans, najpierw dzial imigracyjny. Bartek zostaje odprawiony od razu a u mnie zwolanie komitetu, sprawdzanie, dyskutowanie. Nie wyglada to dobrze. Poczym pani nagle wbija pieczatke i z pieknym usmiechem wrecza mi paszport i mozna rozpoczac czekanie na bagaz, co okazuje sie procesem dlugotrwalym, choc to jedyny samolot na plycie. Jak tylko wychodzimy oblega na chmara taksowkazy, ale postanawiamy nie ulegac i probowac na wlasna reke. Wymieniamy wiec pierwsze dolary i wychodzimy przed lotnisko a tu ogromny darmowy autokar dla gosci Air Asia czekajacy na nas. No to sie nameczylismy. Wsiadamy i od razu czujemy sie jak w domu...na podlodze parkiet, na suficie zerandole i na scianach kinkiety. Podroz czas zaczac. Zalanymi polami i widokiem stup w odali, chyba nawet najdluzszeg mostu tekowego, ale to sie okaze jak zobaczymy go z bliska. Wyrzucaja nas na dworcu. W przewodniku wyszukalismy sobie hotelik, Peackok Lodge, do ktorego chcemy dotrzec na pieszo, ale po tym jak po kilkuset metrach konczy nam sie jakakolwiek mozliwosc przejscia dla pieszych rezygnujemy i po ciezkich negocjacjach jedziemy taksowka, co okazuje sie dobrym wyborem, bo odleglosci tu sa troche wieksze. Peackok Geasthouse niestety pelny, ale po sasiedzku jest drugi, ktory okazuje sie wogole, ze jest prowadzony przez siostre, ale przyjmuje nas mama jak sama nazwa hotelu wskazuje – ‘Geasthouse MaMa’. Z mama mowiaca piekna angielszczyzna i zarazem mama wlasicieli owej przystani. Ceny moze wyzsza niz bysmy chcieli ale pokoj super i z internetem i weranda i przede wszytkim nie chce nam sie chodzic, wiec to szybka decyzja. Poczym po 5 minutach stwierdzamy, ze nie ma co siedziec i idziemy na pobliska gorke (Mandalay Hill). A przynajmniej tak nam sie wydaje, bo droga wzdluz fortu nie ma konca i pozniej niby tylka kilka schodkow, ale te kilka to jest tylko pomiedzy kolejnymi poziomami, a pozimow okazuje sie byc ilosc nie zliczona. I do tego jeszcze na boso cala droge wsrod wiewiorek.
Jak zawsze wchodzimy gdzies od tylu, bo cala droge bylismy sami, a tu nagle na szczycie pelno turystow (tzn. kilka osob, ale na Birme to juz duzo, a zreszta polowa z naszego samolotu). Widok jednak na cala oklice, wiec mozemy sprawdzic, co bysmy chcieli zobaczyc. W czym przerywa nam mnich, ktory chce sobie pociwiczyc angielski i wszystkich zagaduje. Robie sie jednak ciemno, wiec schodzimy. U stop zagladamy do Kyauk-taw-gyi-pagoda z mamrurowym budda i typowym lustrzanym wnetrzem jak w palacu maharadzy. Stamtad do Sanda-mani i Kuthodaw pagod, ktore razem formuja najwieksza ksiazke swiata gdyz w sumie w 2703 malych pagodach naokolo ukryte sa kamienne plyty z tekstem. W nocnym oswietleniu robia niesamowite wrazenie i na pewno tam jeszcze wrocimy za dnia, ale teraz postanawiamy wrocic do hotelu, bo zrobilo sie czarno, a drogi tak srednio oswietlone, co by nie powiedziec wogole. Spowrotem pod szczytem natrafiamy na rynek, gdzie nie mozemy sie oprzec naszym ukochanym buleczkom na parze, ktore znamy z Wietnamu, do tego jeszcze inne nie zidentyfikowane jedzenie prosto z ognia i wygladajace jak crepes z warzywami i podawane jest na gazetce. Na deser jeszcze raz buleczki na parze...no przeciez takiej okazji nie mozna ominac. Najedzenie doszlismy do wniosku, ze jednak bierzemy taksowke do domu, ale jakos zadnej ani widu ani slychu. Same motory, ktore chca nas podwiezc, ale my nie chcemy. Ale nie zostawiaja sprawy tak sobie, tylko probuja nam pomoc i nagle robi sie zamieszanie, jeden pan chyba nas wogole zle zrozumial i prowadzi nas na stragan z benzyna, drugi odjezdza i krzyczy, ze zalatwi nam taksowke, podbiegaja inni, nagle po drugiej stronie ulicy budza pana slodko spiacego w swym samochodzie, ktory okazuje sie byc typowym pick-upem i po kilku minutach pedzimy do domu.
Podsumowanie pierwszych wrazen...chce nam sie spac ...ale tak poza tym to nie wiem do czego to przypozadkowac. Mieszanka wietnamska jedli chodzi o wyglad z hinduskim natrectwem handlarzy i taksowkarzy. Ale inni nie proszeni super odwzajemniaja usmiech i chetnie nawiazuja kontakt, zeby pocwiczyc angielski, jak dziewczynka z mama, ktora zaczepia nas usmiechem w swiatyni najciezszego buddy w Birmie i na koncu pomagaja nam kupic bulki na parze. Wieczor konczymy na werandzie, z radiem birmanskim w tel i lykiem gorzkiej zoladkowej na dobre trawienie i dobranoc.
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Quick breakfast with thai soup with ‘wow effect’ and guava juice for me and the same waiter as yesterday, who literally have tears in his eye when says goodbye and wishes us a good trip and good luck in Burma, as surely as he stated there are no banks ... the only thing that he could think off when we told where we were going… and he wishes also that we should come back. What will probably will became true. We hurry for the taxi with singing driver to get to the airport and finally get some sleep on the plane. Quick check-in as there were almost n controls and we maneuver ourselves trough all perfume stores and food shop were we cannot resist to try dried crocodile - ble – that we quickly try to get of our tongues with water and coffee as it was awful and we are on the plane. Above green hills and backwaters with the destination of Mandalay. On the Aiport we do short reconnaissance, first department of immigration . Bartek is passing through immediately and I standing there holding all people behind me due to checking with other officers, discussing… It doesn’t look good. Then the lady suddenly put a huge stamp and with a beautiful smile gives my passport back. And you can start waiting for the luggage , which turns out to be a long process , although it is the only plane landed. As soon as we leave the airport swarm of taxi drivers surround us, but we decide to not succumb and try on your own. So first we exchange U.S. dollars and go outside of the airport to check how we have to manage it. In front of the door a huge free bus for guests of Air Asia is waiting for us. That was easy. We get on and immediately feel like home ... inside with wooden floor, ceiling and lamps on the walls. Travelling start time. Trough flooded fields and stupas we reach the train station in the center of Mandalay and further we have to manage on our own. We pick up a hostel from guide and want to walk there. But after few hundred meter we're running out any possibility of crossings for pedestrians and give up. After heavy negotiating with a taxi driver we drive to Peackok Geasthouse that unfortunately turns out to be full, but right next door is the second, that is run by sister of the owner. An older lady, which we learn later to be the mother, confirms that they have room for us and we and up by ' Geasthouse MaMa ' and we feel like by mum ;) (Mama means mother in polish). That was quick decision anyway since we don’t feel like walking and searching further. Then after 5 minutes we have already enough from sitting around and decide to do a short climb the nearby hill (Mandalay Hill). Or so we think because to get there takes a little bit longer than expected. The road along the fort has no end and later only few stair steps…but few are only between the levels and there are plenty of levels. All of it barefoot and among squirrels and souvenirs sellers. It looks like we climb from the back side, because all the way we were alone , and suddenly at the top there are loads of tourists (which means few people , but in Burma its already a lot , and moreover half of them were flying with us today). From the top we can see whole Mandalay and we can plan what we'd love to see. Doing so we get disturbed by a monk, who wants to practice some English and talks to all foreigners. By then it’s getting dark and we decide to climb back. At the hill foot we visit Kyauk-taw-gyi - pagoda with marble Buddha and typical interior from mirrors as in the palace of the Maharaja. From there we walk to Sanda -men and Kuthodaw pagodas, which together form the world 's largest book because in the total of 2703 small pagodas placed there, all of them contain stone plates with text . In the night lighting the pagodas look sensational and definitely will go back during the day time but now we decide to go back to the hotel because it’s dark all around us as there are no lights on the street. On the way back at hill foot we find a market where we cannot resist our beloved steamed dumplings, which we know from Vietnam, and some other unidentified food straight from the fire and looking like crepes with vegetable served on a piece of newspaper. For dessert again steamed dumpling ...such an occasion is surely not to be missed. With full stomachs we come to the conclusion that we should take taxi home, but somehow there is none. Only motorbikes that want give us a lift but we do not want to take them in the darkness. But they do not leave things like that and just try to help us and suddenly it is getting crowded around us and everyone is trying to arrange something. One guy probably misunderstood us and as he leads us to a booth with gasoline, the other departs screaming that he is going to arrange taxi on the other side of the street someone will be waken-up and it turns out that he is taxi driver and can take us. And after a few minutes we drive home.
Summary of first impressions ... we want to sleep ... but beyond that I do not know what I have to think about this country. A mix of Vietnamese appearance and Indian compulsive traders and taxi drivers. But not all are compulsive. You will get a beautiful smile back if you just smile to them and a lot of people just want to practice English as a small girl which engages us with a smile at the temple with heaviest Buddha in Burma and that in the end help us buying steamed dumplings. The finish evening on the front porch, with Burmese radio in the background, a sip of bitter vodka for good digestion and good night. 
Jak zawsze wchodzimy gdzies od tylu, bo cala droge bylismy sami, a tu nagle na szczycie pelno turystow (tzn. kilka osob, ale na Birme to juz duzo, a zreszta polowa z naszego samolotu). Widok jednak na cala oklice, wiec mozemy sprawdzic, co bysmy chcieli zobaczyc. W czym przerywa nam mnich, ktory chce sobie pociwiczyc angielski i wszystkich zagaduje. Robie sie jednak ciemno, wiec schodzimy. U stop zagladamy do Kyauk-taw-gyi-pagoda z mamrurowym budda i typowym lustrzanym wnetrzem jak w palacu maharadzy. Stamtad do Sanda-mani i Kuthodaw pagod, ktore razem formuja najwieksza ksiazke swiata gdyz w sumie w 2703 malych pagodach naokolo ukryte sa kamienne plyty z tekstem. W nocnym oswietleniu robia niesamowite wrazenie i na pewno tam jeszcze wrocimy za dnia, ale teraz postanawiamy wrocic do hotelu, bo zrobilo sie czarno, a drogi tak srednio oswietlone, co by nie powiedziec wogole. Spowrotem pod szczytem natrafiamy na rynek, gdzie nie mozemy sie oprzec naszym ukochanym buleczkom na parze, ktore znamy z Wietnamu, do tego jeszcze inne nie zidentyfikowane jedzenie prosto z ognia i wygladajace jak crepes z warzywami i podawane jest na gazetce. Na deser jeszcze raz buleczki na parze...no przeciez takiej okazji nie mozna ominac. Najedzenie doszlismy do wniosku, ze jednak bierzemy taksowke do domu, ale jakos zadnej ani widu ani slychu. Same motory, ktore chca nas podwiezc, ale my nie chcemy. Ale nie zostawiaja sprawy tak sobie, tylko probuja nam pomoc i nagle robi sie zamieszanie, jeden pan chyba nas wogole zle zrozumial i prowadzi nas na stragan z benzyna, drugi odjezdza i krzyczy, ze zalatwi nam taksowke, podbiegaja inni, nagle po drugiej stronie ulicy budza pana slodko spiacego w swym samochodzie, ktory okazuje sie byc typowym pick-upem i po kilku minutach pedzimy do domu.
Podsumowanie pierwszych wrazen...chce nam sie spac ...ale tak poza tym to nie wiem do czego to przypozadkowac. Mieszanka wietnamska jedli chodzi o wyglad z hinduskim natrectwem handlarzy i taksowkarzy. Ale inni nie proszeni super odwzajemniaja usmiech i chetnie nawiazuja kontakt, zeby pocwiczyc angielski, jak dziewczynka z mama, ktora zaczepia nas usmiechem w swiatyni najciezszego buddy w Birmie i na koncu pomagaja nam kupic bulki na parze. Wieczor konczymy na werandzie, z radiem birmanskim w tel i lykiem gorzkiej zoladkowej na dobre trawienie i dobranoc.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quick breakfast with thai soup with ‘wow effect’ and guava juice for me and the same waiter as yesterday, who literally have tears in his eye when says goodbye and wishes us a good trip and good luck in Burma, as surely as he stated there are no banks ... the only thing that he could think off when we told where we were going… and he wishes also that we should come back. What will probably will became true. We hurry for the taxi with singing driver to get to the airport and finally get some sleep on the plane. Quick check-in as there were almost n controls and we maneuver ourselves trough all perfume stores and food shop were we cannot resist to try dried crocodile - ble – that we quickly try to get of our tongues with water and coffee as it was awful and we are on the plane. Above green hills and backwaters with the destination of Mandalay. On the Aiport we do short reconnaissance, first department of immigration . Bartek is passing through immediately and I standing there holding all people behind me due to checking with other officers, discussing… It doesn’t look good. Then the lady suddenly put a huge stamp and with a beautiful smile gives my passport back. And you can start waiting for the luggage , which turns out to be a long process , although it is the only plane landed. As soon as we leave the airport swarm of taxi drivers surround us, but we decide to not succumb and try on your own. So first we exchange U.S. dollars and go outside of the airport to check how we have to manage it. In front of the door a huge free bus for guests of Air Asia is waiting for us. That was easy. We get on and immediately feel like home ... inside with wooden floor, ceiling and lamps on the walls. Travelling start time. Trough flooded fields and stupas we reach the train station in the center of Mandalay and further we have to manage on our own. We pick up a hostel from guide and want to walk there. But after few hundred meter we're running out any possibility of crossings for pedestrians and give up. After heavy negotiating with a taxi driver we drive to Peackok Geasthouse that unfortunately turns out to be full, but right next door is the second, that is run by sister of the owner. An older lady, which we learn later to be the mother, confirms that they have room for us and we and up by ' Geasthouse MaMa ' and we feel like by mum ;) (Mama means mother in polish). That was quick decision anyway since we don’t feel like walking and searching further. Then after 5 minutes we have already enough from sitting around and decide to do a short climb the nearby hill (Mandalay Hill). Or so we think because to get there takes a little bit longer than expected. The road along the fort has no end and later only few stair steps…but few are only between the levels and there are plenty of levels. All of it barefoot and among squirrels and souvenirs sellers. It looks like we climb from the back side, because all the way we were alone , and suddenly at the top there are loads of tourists (which means few people , but in Burma its already a lot , and moreover half of them were flying with us today). From the top we can see whole Mandalay and we can plan what we'd love to see. Doing so we get disturbed by a monk, who wants to practice some English and talks to all foreigners. By then it’s getting dark and we decide to climb back. At the hill foot we visit Kyauk-taw-gyi - pagoda with marble Buddha and typical interior from mirrors as in the palace of the Maharaja. From there we walk to Sanda -men and Kuthodaw pagodas, which together form the world 's largest book because in the total of 2703 small pagodas placed there, all of them contain stone plates with text . In the night lighting the pagodas look sensational and definitely will go back during the day time but now we decide to go back to the hotel because it’s dark all around us as there are no lights on the street. On the way back at hill foot we find a market where we cannot resist our beloved steamed dumplings, which we know from Vietnam, and some other unidentified food straight from the fire and looking like crepes with vegetable served on a piece of newspaper. For dessert again steamed dumpling ...such an occasion is surely not to be missed. With full stomachs we come to the conclusion that we should take taxi home, but somehow there is none. Only motorbikes that want give us a lift but we do not want to take them in the darkness. But they do not leave things like that and just try to help us and suddenly it is getting crowded around us and everyone is trying to arrange something. One guy probably misunderstood us and as he leads us to a booth with gasoline, the other departs screaming that he is going to arrange taxi on the other side of the street someone will be waken-up and it turns out that he is taxi driver and can take us. And after a few minutes we drive home.
Summary of first impressions ... we want to sleep ... but beyond that I do not know what I have to think about this country. A mix of Vietnamese appearance and Indian compulsive traders and taxi drivers. But not all are compulsive. You will get a beautiful smile back if you just smile to them and a lot of people just want to practice English as a small girl which engages us with a smile at the temple with heaviest Buddha in Burma and that in the end help us buying steamed dumplings. The finish evening on the front porch, with Burmese radio in the background, a sip of bitter vodka for good digestion and good night.
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