2013
11
paź
Na wysokosciach / Up in the air
Birma, Bagan
Przejechano 1171 km
Pobudka o 4:30 okazuje sie nie byc ta umowiona tylko bus juz na nas czeka o pol godziny przed umowionym czasem. Szybkie przebranie pidzamki i biegniemy. Po drodze odbieramy innych gosci i dojezdzamy na lake w ciemnosciach, gdzie okazuje sie, ze jestesmy pierwsi. W ciemnosciach tylko widzimy zarysy koszy od balonow, ale dopiero po filizance kawy, ktora dostajemy na dzien dobry. Chris, czyli nasz pilot brytyjczyk, ktory przylecial sobie tu na 2 miesiace, zeby polatac, tlumaczy nam w miedzyczasie przepisy bezpieczenstwa gdy powoli wstaje swit i widzimy armie burmanaczykow przygotowujacych balony do startu. Wszyscu rzucaja sie do fotografowanie, ale najlepsze dopiero przed nami. Najpierw testowy balonik imprezowy i chwila napiecia szef wydaje swoje blogoslawienstwo. Po rodzieleniu nas na 3 balony startujemy...pod nami Bagan. Kolejne milion swiatyn w promieniach wschodzacego slonca. Lot warty kazdego centa.
Po jakiejs godzinnie w powietrzu podchodzimy do ladowania, gdzie najpierw jeden balon ryje w ziemie i go przewraca i ciagnie po ziemi. My lecimy dalej. Nastepny siadam nam doslownie przed nosem i musimy dawac ostro w gore, zeby nad nim przeleciec. Po czym okazuje sie, ze w poblizu nie ma miejsca do ladowania i musimy leciec dalej nad dachami i drzewami, gdzie sie zastanawiamy czy nie uderzymy, ale za to ladowanie pokazowe i od razu armia burmanaczykow, ktora gonila za nami busem po ladzie nas dogania i sklada balon. A my dostajemy dyplomy przy champagnie, crossointach i ciescie i soku z trawy cytrynowej. Chris opowiada nam, ze to dopiero drugi lot w tym sezonie, ktory sie wogole odbyl, bo wszystkie inne do tej pory byly odwolane i jutrzejszy prawdopodobnie tez. I znowu sobie tylko myslimy glupi to ma jednak szczescie. Po dopiciu i zjedzeniu wszystkich pysznosci odwoza nas do hotelu. Jest godzina 8 rano i juz czekaja na nas rowery. Przebieramy sie wiec tylko w lzejsze rzeczy i w droge. Droga prosto do starego Baganu, ktory okazuje sie tylko kupa kilku hotelow i nic poza tym i gdzie po drodze co chwila zbaczamy w polne drogi i podziwiamy pagody, ktore chwile temu widzielismy z lotu i dziwimy sie oco chodzili parze niemcow, ktorych poznalismy na locie balonem, ktorzy juz po pagodach twierdzili, ze nie znalezli zadnej na ktora mozna bylo wejsc i ludzie sa super mili i wcale nie natretni. U nas zupelnie na odwrot, mozemy wejsc na gore w prawie kazdej pagodzie i co chwila ktos do nas podjerzdza i chce cos sprzedac. Oczywiscie orginalne design tej osoby i nie wazne, ze widzimy to chyba poraz setny dzis. Z czego polowa nawet jak slyszy, ze jestesmy z Polski to pyta po polsku ‘kupisz’? tanio. Ale najlepsza jest dziewczynka, ktora jeszcze za nami wola jak wchodzimy po waskich schodach na dach pagody...’’uwaga , powoli’. Uczymy ja jeszcze jak sie mowi po polsku ‘twoje buty’i kupujemy od niej kilka drobiazgow z bambusa. Wczesniej odwiedzilismy rowniez warsztat, gdzie takie dorbiazgi z bambusa lub konskiego wlosia pokryte lakiem wyrabiaja. Hm, po 3 godzinach widzielimsy juz wiekszosc tzn. waznych, wiec ja sie tylko dziwie czemu ludzie tu planuja nawet do 5 dni pobytu. Robimy przystanek w kolo swiatyni Bu-hpaya, gdzie znajduje sie maly port i gdzie siedzimy w samym porcie przy lodkach i zajadamy sie frytkowanymi przysmakami. Dalej w pelnym sloncu do wioski Myinkaba, gdzie robimy kolejne przystanki w pagodach wlacznie z tym, ze do jednej sie wlamujemy przez kratki, zeby wejsc na gore i przez to wszystko zglodnielismy, wiec wracamay kolo Bu-hpaya pagody, gdzie tym razem w jednym ze sklepikow mozna przejsc na taras na tylach z widokiem na rzeke i tam sie wlasnie lokujemy i podbijamy serce pani domu naszymi kilkoma slowami po burmijsku. Po zagladnieciu do wszystkich garnkow wybieramy curry i rozne warzywa i sie rozsiadamy. Nauczeni teraz dostajemy herbatke juz wszedzie za darmo. Po dlugim relaksie gdy najwieksze slonce zelzalo wybieramy sie na podboj kolejnych swiatyn, a najlepsze jest zgubienie sie w malych piaszczystych sciezkach wokol nich i po prostu podazanie do kolejnej z nich. Must do to Ananda i Sula-mani swiatynie jak rowniez Shwe-hsan-daw na zachod slonca. Tylko, ze jak sie okazuje nie jestesmy jedynymi, ktorzy wpadaja na ten pomysl. Zachod wprawdzie nie ma, bo robia sie chmurki, ale za to podziwiamy przekroj chyba wszystkich turystow w miescie, wlacznie z naszymi starymi znajomymi, ktorych spotykamy po drodze od poczatku jak Yeti, Pudel, urzednik finansowy z zona itd (nazwy wlasne zmienione w ramach ochrony prywatnosci, a nawet przydomki nadane przez nas). I tylko sie dziwimy ile ludzi moze wejsc na swiatynie i czy oprocz nas sa polacy, ale nie chce sie nam liczyc, wiec juz po ciemnku wracamy do siebie, po drodze kupujac ryzowe ciasta na slodko na kolacje i w ramach odpowiedzi na nasze drugie pytanie, okazuje sie, ze jedyni ludzie, ktorzy oprocz nas pozostaja w naszym hotelu to wlasnie polacy...
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wakeup at 4:30 by knocking on the door. Our pick up is waiting for us outside already and it doesn’t matter that we agreed yesterday 5:00am. Quick change of pajamas and we are ready. On the way we pick up other guests and in full darkness we arrive at a field where it turns out that we are the first ones. We can hardly see in the background an army of people preparing the balloons. We are welcomed with coffee and Chris, our British pilot who just came here to 2 months to fly balloons, explain to us the security procedures. It’s starting to get bright and we can see the preparations. Fascinated we can see only camera flashes around us as everyone is trying to get the perfect picture. And the best still have to come. Few minutes more and every one holds breath as the do wind test with party balloon. The chief gives green light for the flight and we can board. Spread over 2 balloons we fly away...Bagan in sun rising light underneath. Magical. The flight is worth each cent spent.
After an hour in the air we descent to land. The first balloon have sudden and hard landing, rolls over and pulls few meters over the ground. The second land in front of us and we have to maneuverer up no to bump into it. To down and only we are still in the air but there is no landing spot in sight so we have to fly further just above houses and trees. We manage perfect landing and in immediately army of Burmese men that was following us on land start to fold the balloon and we get Champaign, croissant, cake, lemon grass juice and diploma for flying. Chris shares with us that this was only second flight this season because all other before were cancelled due to weather conditions including probably the one from tomorrow as they are expecting some stronger wind. Well, what shell I say, we are just fucking lucky;) After the cake they bring us back to the hotel. It’s 8am and our bikes are waiting for us already. So there we go. Following the road to Old Bagan, that seems to contain of only few hotels and nothing more, we cycle between the stupas and pagodas that we’ve seen from the balloon. And we wonder what a German couple that we meet this morning meant, that they couldn’t find a stupa that you could climb and everyone is extremely nice and doesn’t want to sell anything. Hm, for us it’s exactly the opposite. We can climb almost every stupa we find. More or less legal ;) And try to avoid all sellers that surround us when we only arrive at a new stupa. Selling of course hand made own design products that we’ve seen already 1000times today. And half of the sellers start to say some polish words (‘kupisz?’ - you buy? Or ‘tanio’- cheap) when they discover that we are from Poland. But one girl is amazing following us up the stupa when she says unexpected in polish ‘uwaga, powoli’ (watch out, slowly, be careful) once we climb a stair. She follow us on way back and we teach her how to say ‘your shoes’in Polish and buy some bamboo souvenirs. Before we saw how they make the bamboo products covered with lack in a lack workshop we passed.
After 3hours on the bike we visited already 1000 stupas incl, the more important so there are only few more 1000 to go, but as always we wonder why they say that you need several days to discover them…But before we cycle further we make brake in the harbor underneath the Bu-hpaya pagoda with the view on colorful boats and where we get some fried snacks and tea. Afterwards we continue to the village Myinkaba where we pass further stupas including climbing over fence and visiting monastery decorated with light like for Christmas. The sun is tiring so we go back to the harbor near Bu-phaya pagoda and make break for lunch on a terrace with river view at the back of one of the shops. With our few words Brumes we create again smile on the faces and get the best pieces when we choose our lunch by looking into the pots. We stay there longer just enjoying the view and cycle further when the sun gets lower. On purpose we get lost in the labyrinth of the sand and cactus paths between stupas which is the best way to discover them. This way we reach Ananda and Sula-mani pagodas which are absolute ‘must see’ and bike to Shwe-hsan-daw pagoda to see the sunset. It seems to be the best spot because we meet there probably all foreigners in town. There is no sunset as the sun goes down behind the clouds but we stay there to watch the amazing show of how many people can fit on one pagoda ;) And of course we meet few old travel companions (people we saw several times on our way) that we lost on the way such as Yeti, puddle, tax officer with wife, etc ( names have been changed by us due to privacy policy ;)) . We wonder how many foreigners are here and if there are any polish people amongst them but we don’t feel like counting so we continue home stopping at some street sellers stands to buy some sweets from banana, coco nut and sticky rice for dinner. At hotel one of the guests greats us in Polish. But of course. The only polish in town are staying in the same hotel...
Po jakiejs godzinnie w powietrzu podchodzimy do ladowania, gdzie najpierw jeden balon ryje w ziemie i go przewraca i ciagnie po ziemi. My lecimy dalej. Nastepny siadam nam doslownie przed nosem i musimy dawac ostro w gore, zeby nad nim przeleciec. Po czym okazuje sie, ze w poblizu nie ma miejsca do ladowania i musimy leciec dalej nad dachami i drzewami, gdzie sie zastanawiamy czy nie uderzymy, ale za to ladowanie pokazowe i od razu armia burmanaczykow, ktora gonila za nami busem po ladzie nas dogania i sklada balon. A my dostajemy dyplomy przy champagnie, crossointach i ciescie i soku z trawy cytrynowej. Chris opowiada nam, ze to dopiero drugi lot w tym sezonie, ktory sie wogole odbyl, bo wszystkie inne do tej pory byly odwolane i jutrzejszy prawdopodobnie tez. I znowu sobie tylko myslimy glupi to ma jednak szczescie. Po dopiciu i zjedzeniu wszystkich pysznosci odwoza nas do hotelu. Jest godzina 8 rano i juz czekaja na nas rowery. Przebieramy sie wiec tylko w lzejsze rzeczy i w droge. Droga prosto do starego Baganu, ktory okazuje sie tylko kupa kilku hotelow i nic poza tym i gdzie po drodze co chwila zbaczamy w polne drogi i podziwiamy pagody, ktore chwile temu widzielismy z lotu i dziwimy sie oco chodzili parze niemcow, ktorych poznalismy na locie balonem, ktorzy juz po pagodach twierdzili, ze nie znalezli zadnej na ktora mozna bylo wejsc i ludzie sa super mili i wcale nie natretni. U nas zupelnie na odwrot, mozemy wejsc na gore w prawie kazdej pagodzie i co chwila ktos do nas podjerzdza i chce cos sprzedac. Oczywiscie orginalne design tej osoby i nie wazne, ze widzimy to chyba poraz setny dzis. Z czego polowa nawet jak slyszy, ze jestesmy z Polski to pyta po polsku ‘kupisz’? tanio. Ale najlepsza jest dziewczynka, ktora jeszcze za nami wola jak wchodzimy po waskich schodach na dach pagody...’’uwaga , powoli’. Uczymy ja jeszcze jak sie mowi po polsku ‘twoje buty’i kupujemy od niej kilka drobiazgow z bambusa. Wczesniej odwiedzilismy rowniez warsztat, gdzie takie dorbiazgi z bambusa lub konskiego wlosia pokryte lakiem wyrabiaja. Hm, po 3 godzinach widzielimsy juz wiekszosc tzn. waznych, wiec ja sie tylko dziwie czemu ludzie tu planuja nawet do 5 dni pobytu. Robimy przystanek w kolo swiatyni Bu-hpaya, gdzie znajduje sie maly port i gdzie siedzimy w samym porcie przy lodkach i zajadamy sie frytkowanymi przysmakami. Dalej w pelnym sloncu do wioski Myinkaba, gdzie robimy kolejne przystanki w pagodach wlacznie z tym, ze do jednej sie wlamujemy przez kratki, zeby wejsc na gore i przez to wszystko zglodnielismy, wiec wracamay kolo Bu-hpaya pagody, gdzie tym razem w jednym ze sklepikow mozna przejsc na taras na tylach z widokiem na rzeke i tam sie wlasnie lokujemy i podbijamy serce pani domu naszymi kilkoma slowami po burmijsku. Po zagladnieciu do wszystkich garnkow wybieramy curry i rozne warzywa i sie rozsiadamy. Nauczeni teraz dostajemy herbatke juz wszedzie za darmo. Po dlugim relaksie gdy najwieksze slonce zelzalo wybieramy sie na podboj kolejnych swiatyn, a najlepsze jest zgubienie sie w malych piaszczystych sciezkach wokol nich i po prostu podazanie do kolejnej z nich. Must do to Ananda i Sula-mani swiatynie jak rowniez Shwe-hsan-daw na zachod slonca. Tylko, ze jak sie okazuje nie jestesmy jedynymi, ktorzy wpadaja na ten pomysl. Zachod wprawdzie nie ma, bo robia sie chmurki, ale za to podziwiamy przekroj chyba wszystkich turystow w miescie, wlacznie z naszymi starymi znajomymi, ktorych spotykamy po drodze od poczatku jak Yeti, Pudel, urzednik finansowy z zona itd (nazwy wlasne zmienione w ramach ochrony prywatnosci, a nawet przydomki nadane przez nas). I tylko sie dziwimy ile ludzi moze wejsc na swiatynie i czy oprocz nas sa polacy, ale nie chce sie nam liczyc, wiec juz po ciemnku wracamy do siebie, po drodze kupujac ryzowe ciasta na slodko na kolacje i w ramach odpowiedzi na nasze drugie pytanie, okazuje sie, ze jedyni ludzie, ktorzy oprocz nas pozostaja w naszym hotelu to wlasnie polacy...
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wakeup at 4:30 by knocking on the door. Our pick up is waiting for us outside already and it doesn’t matter that we agreed yesterday 5:00am. Quick change of pajamas and we are ready. On the way we pick up other guests and in full darkness we arrive at a field where it turns out that we are the first ones. We can hardly see in the background an army of people preparing the balloons. We are welcomed with coffee and Chris, our British pilot who just came here to 2 months to fly balloons, explain to us the security procedures. It’s starting to get bright and we can see the preparations. Fascinated we can see only camera flashes around us as everyone is trying to get the perfect picture. And the best still have to come. Few minutes more and every one holds breath as the do wind test with party balloon. The chief gives green light for the flight and we can board. Spread over 2 balloons we fly away...Bagan in sun rising light underneath. Magical. The flight is worth each cent spent.
After an hour in the air we descent to land. The first balloon have sudden and hard landing, rolls over and pulls few meters over the ground. The second land in front of us and we have to maneuverer up no to bump into it. To down and only we are still in the air but there is no landing spot in sight so we have to fly further just above houses and trees. We manage perfect landing and in immediately army of Burmese men that was following us on land start to fold the balloon and we get Champaign, croissant, cake, lemon grass juice and diploma for flying. Chris shares with us that this was only second flight this season because all other before were cancelled due to weather conditions including probably the one from tomorrow as they are expecting some stronger wind. Well, what shell I say, we are just fucking lucky;) After the cake they bring us back to the hotel. It’s 8am and our bikes are waiting for us already. So there we go. Following the road to Old Bagan, that seems to contain of only few hotels and nothing more, we cycle between the stupas and pagodas that we’ve seen from the balloon. And we wonder what a German couple that we meet this morning meant, that they couldn’t find a stupa that you could climb and everyone is extremely nice and doesn’t want to sell anything. Hm, for us it’s exactly the opposite. We can climb almost every stupa we find. More or less legal ;) And try to avoid all sellers that surround us when we only arrive at a new stupa. Selling of course hand made own design products that we’ve seen already 1000times today. And half of the sellers start to say some polish words (‘kupisz?’ - you buy? Or ‘tanio’- cheap) when they discover that we are from Poland. But one girl is amazing following us up the stupa when she says unexpected in polish ‘uwaga, powoli’ (watch out, slowly, be careful) once we climb a stair. She follow us on way back and we teach her how to say ‘your shoes’in Polish and buy some bamboo souvenirs. Before we saw how they make the bamboo products covered with lack in a lack workshop we passed.
After 3hours on the bike we visited already 1000 stupas incl, the more important so there are only few more 1000 to go, but as always we wonder why they say that you need several days to discover them…But before we cycle further we make brake in the harbor underneath the Bu-hpaya pagoda with the view on colorful boats and where we get some fried snacks and tea. Afterwards we continue to the village Myinkaba where we pass further stupas including climbing over fence and visiting monastery decorated with light like for Christmas. The sun is tiring so we go back to the harbor near Bu-phaya pagoda and make break for lunch on a terrace with river view at the back of one of the shops. With our few words Brumes we create again smile on the faces and get the best pieces when we choose our lunch by looking into the pots. We stay there longer just enjoying the view and cycle further when the sun gets lower. On purpose we get lost in the labyrinth of the sand and cactus paths between stupas which is the best way to discover them. This way we reach Ananda and Sula-mani pagodas which are absolute ‘must see’ and bike to Shwe-hsan-daw pagoda to see the sunset. It seems to be the best spot because we meet there probably all foreigners in town. There is no sunset as the sun goes down behind the clouds but we stay there to watch the amazing show of how many people can fit on one pagoda ;) And of course we meet few old travel companions (people we saw several times on our way) that we lost on the way such as Yeti, puddle, tax officer with wife, etc ( names have been changed by us due to privacy policy ;)) . We wonder how many foreigners are here and if there are any polish people amongst them but we don’t feel like counting so we continue home stopping at some street sellers stands to buy some sweets from banana, coco nut and sticky rice for dinner. At hotel one of the guests greats us in Polish. But of course. The only polish in town are staying in the same hotel...
Komentarze (0)
Zasoby: 
20.917 
21.731 
1.081.993 
3.423 
